Plus, hidebound by the depths of their food culture, they all seem to have exactly the same menus: bonjour soupe de poisson; allo, confit de canard. I love bistros like Chez Georges and Allard and that grand dame of brasseries, Bofinger.
You could argue with me by citing your own Parisian favourites. You can also find better Italian restaurants here than you can in Rome.
I did my research when I visited the Italian capital. I paraded around a bunch of highly regarded trattoria. All with the same menu. Ooh, look: cacio e pepe. It was executed with a shrug. I found myself thinking of the food back in London: the rugged sausages and the deep-fried sage leaves with anchovy at Bocca di Lupo, the seafood fregola at Sartoria, the pasta dishes at Locanda Locatelli, Padella and Theo Randall.
Unless I wanted to join the queue for Cal Pep. Happily, it means practitioners do not have to fret about what others are doing. They can interrogate original recipes. They can do it their way. Should I mention that this brilliantly cosmopolitan restaurant sector was encouraged and fostered by a club of European countries to which we used to belong, allowing for free movement across the continent?
No, perhaps not. Which makes the fact that in London you can eat better French food than in Paris, better Italian than in Rome and better Spanish than in Barcelona not just intriguing. It makes it an absolute godsend.
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